Route updates

This page  offer the updates on the way, everyone can write directly here (comments), or email to, to help the next walkers. Mistakes in the book, changes on the path, changes in the accommodations, everything useful can be reported here. The future Cretan walkers will thank you!


The route updates to the first edition of the book (print and take with you): find it here

The route updates to the second edition of the book (print and take with you):

  • DAY 1
    Where to stay in Chandras:
    in Chandras there’s the 4th change of the woman running the apartment: now is Katerina Manousaki , e-mail If you have problems to contact her, try to contact the Kafenio IOANNA, in the main square, she will help you to find a room: go directly to her kafenio or phone her, Gianka Dobreva +30 2843031891

New information: Marina at Marika’s Taverna, there are 3 rooms.  +30 6979034968 . She is at Marika’s Taverna. There are 3 rooms. 2 x double and 1 x 3 single rooms.

There is also a fabulous Airbnb belonging to Doretta that can sleep 6. Unfortunately it is a 2 night minimum stay, but she may do you a slight discount.


  • DAY 2
    Where to stay in Chrisopigi:Irene wrote us there’s a new possibility in Chrisopigi for accomodation: you have to contact directly  the owner. Her name is Stella Kirmitzoglou and her phone number is +306974716266. The house is up to 6 persons and soon is going to be at Airbnb too.

Another possibility is to go down to Stavrochori, good news, there’s a nice accomodation there! Gemma is an italian lady, married with a Stavrochori man, they have a nice Blue House (Casa Blu), she comes to pick you up in Chrisopigi and the morning after she brings you back there. Good prices for the night, in Stavrochori you find a taverna restaurant and a market too. Gemma: 0030 6971719456 and

Ioanna of tavern Kapilio ( is a nice lady, you can ask here help if you have problems with Airbnb rooms.

  • DAY 4
    Where to stay in Prina: in Prina Taverna Pitopoulis is building rooms, now gives accomodation outside, in the yard under the olive trees, but gives the shower and toilet. And the food in the taverna, and he plays lyra for the guests. If you want a room, for now he can pick you up till Kalamafka, it’s 4 km, he knows who can host you. Dimitri Pitopoulis 0030 6994854613.


  • DAY 17 In Gerakari the accomodation of Despina, taverna and rooms, seems to have some problems: in 2019 walkers report that they are not satisfied, we got many complaints, so you can decide if to go or to change and go to the hotel. Hoping in the future will be better.


    March 2018: the part from the end of the Kallikratis gorge to Komitates is now marked with two red stripes.


    Not the official Cretan Way, but a nice alternative, with a night in Koustogerako, a nice village. If you come down from Omalos to Sougia and you don’t want to hike Agia Irini gorge, you can walk from the path that starts near the church of Agii Theodori, near Ghreleska. The path passes a fantastic cypress forest, and arrives to Agia Ekaterini church. Then down to Koustogerako. From Koustogerako to Sougia it’s another beautiful walk on the hill an then down to Sougia. Maria in Koustogerako runs a kafenion with a room that can host 4 people. She can host walkers, it’s a home accomodation, she cooks home made dinner. Contacts of Maria in Koustogerako: 00306943191310 – 00306949746866 –
  • DAY 28 ELAFONISSI – CHRISSOSKALITISAMarch 2018: now the last day of walk is well marked with two red stripes.
  • MAPS
    Anavasi has also maps to use on the phone, you can download them with the app PdfMaps (for Iphone the app is Avenza).



6 thoughts on “Route updates

  1. I did “the Cretan way” from psiloritis, starting in gerakari until agia roumeli in June 18. Here are. Just some notes from my route (slightly different than in the book) .

    To get to a good starting Point I took the bus from rethymno to arkadi and walked to gerakari. Strangely I saw some e4 signs close to the arkadi monastery.

    New Asphalt road when descending to kissos
    Hotel in spili: green hotel, nice and cheap

    Spili-agkuseliana (instead of kanevos) :
    I took a shortcut around kanevos.
    Prevelis rent rooms, nice and cheap, next to the BP gas station.
    Taverna tasoula absolutely recommended!

    Agkouseliana-roustika (instead of argiroupouli)
    One of the most Beautiful stages during my trip!
    Hotel: mountain view resort, nice and cheap with an incredibly friendly lady, Who helped me in many issues.

    Roustika – argiroupouli /lappa:
    I was warned there are pigs and dogs running freely around the deserted village of nisi and I should take a stick to protect myself.
    Indeed I met pigs (no danger), but two big angry dogs without chain were blocking the way shortly after nisi (I met many free running dogs on the way, but these seemed dangerous). I turned around and took the detour through nisi, 4km and about 500 m of height., 1hour extra. But Awesome view on this detour, with some fences and gates which are not meant to be opened by hikers.

    Argiroupouli – kallikratis :
    I took the “strong shortcut” from asi Gonia to kallikratis, and it really really is strong. But the marking with two red stripes still is really good and helpful! I wore short pants, which you probably shouldn’t. From asi Gonia to kallikratis kafenion it took me 2hrs 45min. From there I had a taxi waiting to chora sfakion in order to save one day (not enough time till flight home).
    In Sfakia I think Samaria hotel, room 23 is the best you can get and really cheap.

    I hope it might help someone!

  2. Hi Luca
    Thanks for your book : a great support to our own project
    We are planning to start the trip on April 15th 2019
    Can someone update us on where to stay in Chandras : e-mail “” indicated in the update returns an error code, and no-one picks up the phone when we call the number indicated.

  3. Hi Luca, and everyone. Thanks for putting this together Luca! The book is indispensable and entertaining! Just fyi, my wife and I just completed the Cretan Way from east to west. We literally just finished yesterday (8 June 2022) after starting it 30 days ago. If you or anyone else out there wants updated route information, or has questions about accom options, etc, let me know. My email is: Cheers, Rob.

  4. The number of Dimitri Kornaros (on page 70 in the book) is not in use anymore. I’ve asked the locals and it seems there is no renting rooms anymore as well. I camped outside of Profitis Illias next to the E4 path.

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